„The brand was never ever supposed to be taken really significantly,“ says Thomas Wirski, Misbhv’s inventive director, in excess of the cellphone from Warsaw, Poland. But because the brand’s New York Style Week debut in September, Misbhv has turn out to be one of the season’s most talked-about vogue labels.
Designer Natalia Maczek initially founded Misbhv about 3 years ago as a side project, generating a modest line of T-shirts for close pals to dress in in the club. Over the previous five seasons, the Polish brand has created into a complete-fledged contemporary line for men and women that mixes streetwear and nostalgia. It truly is a formula which of-the-moment labels from Eastern Europe have perfected — Gosha Rubchinskiy, Vetements and Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga — but what sets Misbhv apart is that it nevertheless feels fresh and new, rather than acquainted.
It really is mostly thanks to Wirski and Maczek’s DIY approach and drive to progress Misbhv through experimenting with leather, denim and swim. It aids that the two were law students with no formal training in trend. „The way this organization works in Poland is we never have an institutional trend plan. We don’t have a method we can develop in,“ explains Wirski. „Every thing we did so far we discovered ourselves. A lot of the occasions we speak about the DIY method since this is what we grew up around. If we wished to make a pair of trousers, we had to find out ourselves.“
The core Misbhv team is made of up six people — mostly buddies from above the many years — and, according to Wirski, the brand expands with each season. „Simply because we’re all very near, we try to come up with a vision that everyone believes in and is cohesive,“ says Wirski, who naturally gravitates in direction of developing the men’s clothing although Waczek oversees women’s wear. Misbhv is produced solely in Poland, amongst ten to 12 factories (the farthest getting just a three-hour drive away). Fabrics are sourced throughout Europe, such as Italy, Portugal and France, and the fall 2016 collection’s cost stage ranges amongst about $ 83 for a T-shirt, $ 376 for a coat and $ one,812 for an oversized leather jacket.
For spring 2017, Wirski and Maczek presented Misbhv’s initial-ever standalone women’s put on assortment at New York Vogue Week. „It was a wonderful knowledge, from set design to creating music,“ says Wirski. The decision of music was a higher priority for the presentation, also, as techno filled the Milk Studios area to reflect the collection’s inspiration from rave culture. The emotionless designs posed along a floor peppered with roses the collection is a juxtaposition in between young adore and a setting that was remembered as cold and grim. „It is a look back at a time we know very well,“ describes Wirski. „The late ’90s and early 2000s when we were teenagers and would go out to the clubs in Eastern Europe.“
The clothing is certainly reminiscent of a club kid’s wardrobe: broad-legged pants with exaggerated pockets in denim and shiny black patent leather oversized hoodies and button-downs cropped jackets and stomach-baring tops motocross-inspired leather pieces and pops of cotton candy pink by way of monogrammed bodysuit and chaps, as effectively as sparkling diamanté in the form of a logo or bra leading. One of the versions from the presentation was Sita Abellan, a longtime good friend and Misbhv muse who wore a look from her approaching 5-piece capsule assortment for the brand, which is known as „Ache“ and contains a silk kimono robe and boxer-fashion shorts.
It is interesting that Misbhv manufactured its style week debut across the Atlantic in New York, as opposed to close by cities like London and Paris. Does this imply they hope to increase their retail presence on in the U.S.? Not so considerably. Wirski notes that they are presently lucky enough to work with notion boutiques like H. Lorenzo, Wildstyle and 424 On Fairfax in Los Angeles, as effectively as VFiles in New York City. „We have a particular capability to get on stores, and we would detest to take on shops just due to the fact it would be a guarantee of some process,“ he says. „We’re very careful about the merchants that we perform with and we by no indicates want to push it in any markets. We wouldn’t want to increase greater for the sake of developing larger.“
In the meantime, Misbhv’s target is on Paris, where they will existing the assortment once more in October for market and showcase the men’s line in January. By February, Wirski and Maczek will be back in New York to debut their fall 2017 assortment. „It truly is going to be far better than this season due to the fact we usually do fall and winter much better,“ says Wirski. We’ll be watching.
Browse Misbhv’s spring 2017 assortment in the gallery under.
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